Mel vs Dennis

12 September, 2006 

The climb twice a week thing has now become a Monday night outdoors and Thursday night indoors session. Here’s some highlights from last night at UC:

  • Matt improved by three grades: Purple II and nailed his nemesis Blue II.
  • Faz jumped straight onto a Red II but this soon turned into a Rainbow climb.
  • Chris out classed the Faz.
  • Stewie my old (and quite literally) climbing buddy was at UC. He tells Cutie, "Mel and me go way back" and tells her how we got stuck on . Cutie looks at my UC card then at Stew, "You sure your good mates? His name is Dennis". It was years before Stewie, Missy and I knew each others real names (and sometimes we still forget). He called my phone once, I answered "Dennis speaking", and Stewie responds, "Can I speak to Mel?". Then I had the same trouble at Skirmish on my bucks day: going through the roll call I hear "Robert Msfeld". I ask around, "Whose Robert Msfeld? I didn’t invite that fellow". Missy’s right next to me and responds, "Thats me Mel!".
  • I bagged my first Black I. The conditioning is kicking in. Still staying clear of overhangs until I feel I’m ready.
  • We got in trouble again, twice: I was on the mobile while standing inside the climbing floor. And Matt was twisted around the rope while on the wall before being instructed to untangle himself. Faz has a plan to deliberately break some rules to attract the attention of said Cutie. Next week I’ll suggest using a mobile phone while on belay.
  • Frankie: we figure Cutie will be your incentive to start coming indoors! We know you’ll love the attention and reciprocate ;-)

–Mel
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Gri-gri jam-jam

29 August, 2006 

The indoor climbs have 18 different grades (3 grades per colour) ranging from easy-peasy to incredibly difficult. For example, Yellow 1, Yellow 2, Yellow 3, Blue 1, Blue 2 and so on.

  1. Yellow: Beginners start here.
  2. Blue: Good warm up.
  3. Purple: Now your climbing.
  4. Green: Its all about technique
  5. Red:
  6. Black:

Matt’s personal best was a Blue 1, but attempted a Blue 2 only to find he had run out of juice by the end of the evening. The overhangs are a killer.

Rachie got bashed around a bit. A nice welcome back for her. She has a big climbing trophy (bruise) to show off :-)

Tom showed us, that Green isn’t about technique at all – just pure strength :-) Tom’s personal best was a Red 1.

Trav demonstrated to all of us on "how not to belay": the gri-gri jammed and before anyone could say "Trav put your right hand back on the brake", he unwittingly managed to free the rope and Tom came crashing down to earth (a 3m fall). Lesson learnt. Tom was okay, the gri-gri did lock in and Tom was barely touching the ground (on his tippy toes) – ironically everyone rushed to Trav’s aid as opposed to the victim. And while people were talking to Trav and inspecting the gri-gri, Tom reminds us in his best Monty Python high pitch squeaky voice, "Guys? [pause] Guys? Give me some slack. [pause] My boys are suffocating."

I managed to get a Red 1 but could not repeat the same on the overhangs. I’ve got to work on my upper body strength.

As we left, the cutie* behind the counter asks Matt, "When will I next see you guys?". To which Matt replies, "The next time it rains!". Rain these days is rarer than the blue moon. However, cutie had an answer, "But it will be raining tomorrow.". Touche!

–Mel

*The Chad’s description.
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Brisbane Bitter

21 August, 2006

For those that missed last Saturday or can’t remember, here’s a diary of events:

  • bb.JPGAs planned, I lead Bitter. Decided to solo up to the 1st 4m bolt. And as predicted I fell on the crux, three times! The first was a 4m whipper and the others were uneventful. All I remember of the first fall is the rock face rushing past me and then the rope going tight taking my weight before I slammed into the wall. No time to do anything, not even to enjoy the ride :-) It was a forth time lucky attempt to pass through the crux to the desperate 5th bolt placement.
  • Unfortunately we did not have enough climbers to setup on the proposed filming locations. Chris belayed me and Matt was in charge of the photography. He caught the whippers on film and took a few happy snaps. Thanks for the filming Matt!
  • Matt and Amy had a go on Anonymous which lived up to its hard start reputation.
  • The BBQ started late. The park was so busy! Had quite a few of us for the BBQ (10 hungry people).
  • By 8ish most of us headed back to the ‘gabba for the cards night where the Whytey Bros. and Steeley met us. Matt mixed several Lychee “Hollywoods” cocktails before the cards began. Chris the Red Shark cleaned up in both tournaments ($100 profit). The Whytey Bros. had a carton of beer between them and Paul “all in” Steele drank a half bottle of Scotch. I’m sure this contributed to their early losses. Funny how the Red Shark was the only one not drinking. :-)

Thanks for a great night.

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The Crew

Email us at crew@urbancrag.com.au

Profile_Grasshopper.jpgThe Grasshopper: Dennis Mellican

The protagonist of Urban Crag, The Grasshopper was once the disciple of the French climber Justin Appietto. Climbing since 1995, he now leads a group of merry climbers religiously to each week. He has introduced many to :

The Teacher: John Farrelly

A long time climbing partner of The Grasshopper, the Teacher has climbed since 1996. His physical education background coupled with the knowledge of everything useless, The Teacher climbs each route as if it were his first time. His lack of memory and style (he climbs in his pajamas) is compensated with his ability to pull off some crazy human movements maneuvers that would tangle any contortionist. Unfortunately not much can be learnt from the Teacher as no one can ever repeat his moves – not even the Teacher himself (he doesn’t repeat the same move twice)!

Gilligan: Fraser Pocknee

His 3 month voyage up the coast in a yacht earned him this title. In 2002, The Grasshopper was introduced to Gilligan and later learnt that his family owned the Pulpit property! Befriending Gilligan, he soon taught him the ropes and now Gilligan is a confident leader able to climb grade 24 routes and lead up to grade 21. Cover your ears though when climbing with Gilligan, he is known to yell all sorts of profanities in his efforts to overcome a crux.

Red (aka Rambo the Hippy): Chris Nolan

Introduced to climbing in 2004, his naturally coloured locks and sometimes matching shirt and pants became his call sign. A slow start, Red resorted to climbing indoors with his own crew and this resulted in a noticable improvement that has surpassed a couple of long time UC members. His ability has flourished over the last year or so and now owns his own rope and lead gear.

The Giggler: Nicole Keegan

Profile_Giggler.JPGPink climbing shoes, a person hugging the cliff while standing on a big ledge and bouts of nervous laughter can only mean The Giggler is climbing. Joining UC in November 2005, the Giggler has faced many of her fears (ledges, black rocks and heights). Yet has remained steadfast in conquering various climbs to overcome these fears. The Giggler likes to talk dirty to the rock and sometimes even slap it, often coming off second best. Always entertaining and a joy to be around, the Giggler is good value.

Bigfoot: Matt Moores

Sporting a size 46 climbing shoe, the sasquatch climber joined UC in early 2006. A Capoeira enthusiast, his dancing and martial arts skills are yet to be reflected on the rock wall. Not even a cartwheel start has been seen. Bigfoot is legendary for his endurance. Several epics involved multiple belayers (relay tag team) whilst on a single climb. Despite these marathons, Bigfoot has progressed to patiently learning various techniques to assist in using his greatest asset: the feet.

The Duke: Tom Young

In the second half of 2006, this Kiwi plasterer was introduced to the world of climbing by the Grasshopper. He earned his name from the motorcycle he proudly owns. Like the Chad, his upper body strength coupled with his competitive spirit has impressed the UC crew. His technique is developing fast and climbs grades up to 23. His first lead was at the Pulpit on Scorpion (15) and his enthusiasm is reflected in his buying spree for climbing gear.

Tom climbed Mt Kiliminjaro in late 2007 and also hung around the crags of Krabi, Thailand. Like Profile_Chock.JPGMr Erotica, his climbing wasn’t confined to sandstone. A tip from the Duke, "$150 buys you three days of horizontal climbing and is better than blowing the same for a lappy at Hot Girls". 

The Chock: Brock Janiczak 

Joined late in 2007, the Chock was thrown in the deep end for his first two sessions. Keen as mustard, the Chock is already looking at purchasing climbing gear! He is the Insane one in the 2008 team.

Profile_Crane.JPGThe Crane: Shane Hollaway

Another 2007 newbie, his tall skinny gangly long thin arms and legs enable the Crane to simply lift where no man reach. Well thats the theory of the Crane. He is still under contruction and hopefully in 2008 will demonstrate the lanky cliff dance on a 21. Introduced to climbing at the indoor gym, his graduation to rock has propelled him up the newbie ranks.

Sabbaticals

The Chad: Travers Murr

Named by his Indy mates when introduced to a young lady, The Chad has been climbing since 1997. Introduced by The Grasshopper’s brother, The Chad soon found another sporting passion other than surfing. His upper body physique developed from years of duck diving gives him the strength and endurance to go hard on routes that others are reluctant to try on lead. He has been victim to a couple of impressive whippers and each time came out relatively unscathed. The UC logo, designs and t-shirts are attributed to his graphic design skills.

Trav’s priorities have changed towards the last quarter of 2007. Smiley 

Irish

The gibbering Irish fool who reminds us of Brad Pitt’s Irish gypsy character from the movie Snatch. His toothpick appearance is deceiving. A chippy by trade, his strength and agility enables him to match the experienced climbers in the crew. Climbing only since late 2006, Irish can dog his way up a grade 23 and climb the overhangs of an Indoor gym.

Irish cannot climb without his translator Tom.

The Bruiser: Mel Horne

Early 2007, wearing a purple shirt and matching climbing shoes, she started out under the alias of  Purple. Her first climb on Date Anatomy (14) at resulted in a small pendulum fall that resulted in a bruised backside. The Bruiser is new to the climbing scene and is a regular to both the indoor and outdoor weekly training sessions.

Since September 2007, the Bruiser has sustained a foot injury and is still recovering.

Nice: Jenesse Valentine

Profile_Nicey.JPG Introduced to climbing in late 2006, Nice got her name from a shortened version of her first name. Her climbing career began on Web (17) at . At this time, she also experienced her first fall but quickly regained her feet to continue climbing without showing any fear. Honing her skills at the indoor gym, Nice is now bagging more climbs at . An inspiration to others in her attitude to climb better each time.

The UC alumni

Johnny Bananas: John Davies

Mr Banana’s once worked with The Chad at Paddy Palin’s (when they had a section). Unfortunately for UC, Mr B. no longer climbs with us – his climbing ability and experience was inspiring to all.

Missy: Robert Misfeld

Another one of The Chad’s mates and a very experienced climber. The Grasshopper, Stu and Missy got benighted on in 2001. The Chad introduced Kirsty to Missy and soon those two were an item and vanished from the scene. Unfortunately the Chad did not learn from playing rock cupid, and a repeat of "don’t screw with the crew" happened with a former work friend.

Stu

A mate of Missy and also his work climbing partner (for Vertigo), Stu was an insipirational climber. His fitness and ability for his age was amazing! Stu disappeared shortly after Missy left the scene. He can sometimes be found hanging around the West End indoor climbing gym.

Kirsty 

A friend of The Chad who befriended Missy and vanished with him off to some sunset away from KP. 

Barney: Barney Hood

The Grasshopper’s original climbing parter who was also instructed under the guidance of Justin Appietto. They climbed religiously until one day the Grasshopper went oversea’s. Upon his return, The Chad had introduced Mish to Barney. Barney became smitten and the rest is history…. they vanished from the scene all together.

Mish: Michelle Robinson

Used to work with the Chad. Besides introducing her to climbing, she met Barney too. Not long after, Barney & Mish vanished. They are getting married this March!

Marcel

Introduced to climbing by Mr E. Climbed for about 10 months before going overseas.

Mr Drag: Darren Middleton

One of the Powderfinger band members, introduced by The Chad. Climbed only a few times before complaining that his fingers were too valuable to risk on the rock.

Clint

Introduced to climbing by Mr E. He was sacked from work in 2001 and vanished soon after, too ashamed to be seen by his mates.

Mr Erotica: Frank Kermeci

Known for his extra curricular activities involving other forms of climbing, Mr E has been climbing since 2001. His hardest lead to date is the Brothers Grimm (20) at The Pulpit. Also known for his apathy towards safety and disdain for indoor climbers, Mr E climbs with little effort or caring. He can climb hard routes without little expenditure to energy but when effort is required a climb becomes "impossible". Mr E cannot be trusted. He once gave up the sacred UC call "Its a good night to climb!"

Mr E left in early 2007 due to Tafe commitments and has since secretly been pursuing his extra curricular program. Her name is Karin.

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