|
|||
|
21 November, 2006 …that is the question. The answer was not to lead, despite tonight’s objective. Another full house tonight: Red, The Giggler, The Duke, Gilligan, Mr Erotica, The Chad, The Teacher, Irish, Crazy German Girl and Nice. We setup on Surrender (19), Love Hurts (23), Wrath of Grapes (17/19VF), G&M’s Climb (22) and Samson’s Pillar (16). Thanks for those who helped set up. With such a big crew now every rope counts. For some reason, I came home with an egg on my left knee and matching bruises on both legs. Don’t remember banging myself up that bad – the numerous falls while attempting the crux on Crimes and Misdemeanors (22) is the likely suspect. I kept to my usual climbs of Surrender and Love Hurts. Was reluctant to lead these after depleting most of my energy on C&M. The Duke did well to clean both Surrender and Love Hurts. G&M’s crux proved too difficult. Getting Love Hurts cleanly was a good achievement though. The Giggler nailed the layback moves on the start of Surrender but ran out of juice stepping out to the right for the series of ledges. The second attempt on Surrender was unsuccessful due to tired arms. Even though a layback involves straight arms to minimise the energy required, it still consumes energy as weight is transferred from the muscles to the bones and ligaments. Red’s return to the rock after an absence of 3 weeks proved too long. Bad moves, forgotten technique and route finding found himself coming off at unexpected places on Surrender and Love Hurts. Gilligan and The Teacher both worked G&M’s and the Grapes. They also did Surrender and Love Hurts (cleanly). Why didn’t you guys lead tonight? The Chad powered up Grapes and Surrender cleanly. His nemesis Love Hurts remains unconquered. The Chad looks like defeating the crux at the next outing. Irish successfully conquered Surrender and Samson’s. He’ll surpass The Duke soon Mr Erotica cleaned Love Hurts but I didn’t see Erotica do any other climbs than just being a belay monkey all night. Ah well, we’ll make you go first up the Pulpit for your unselfishness. Nice and Crazy German Girl were happy to watch and listen to the usual trash talking amongst the crew – sometimes joining in. Some banter amongst the crew: The dreaded killer giant drop bear; Irish being attacked by a frucken bat (it was really just a butterfly); The Chad trash talking The Giggler while both are on the cliffs; How to smoke without crying; How to belay with a fag in one hand; and The Duke did most of his talking via his smelly a-hole. –Mel Had a good turn out: The Duke, Irish, Crazy German girl, Gilligan, The Freak, Nice (pronounced like the French Riveria town) and myself. We paired up (Crazy found a stray newbie) and began working various routes. Gilligan, Nice and Crazy had their induction which seems to be different every time. Remember your ABCs "A for Anchor – is it twisted?; B for Belay – is the biner locked?; C for Climber – are you attached? was reinforced to them many times. If you did not remember or broke a rule it was a 10 push up penalty. The Duke warmed up on the Black One – cleanly. Irish did it next and got to the top despite a fall and an accidental misplaced foot on a blue. But a mighty effort. The Freak didn’t disappoint either – he claimed a hard Red Two. Some stretchy moves followed by a crazy attempt to hook his left leg up in an almost figure four maneuver. He cleaned the climb which no one else could repeat. Gilligan’s first time at UC saw him start on the Purples – even on the wave wall (obviously been out in that sun too long). Nice nailed every Blue she was on – cleanly too. Technique will see her on the Purple’s next. Saw Crazy attack the wave wall too – truely a Crazy German girl. Second time climbing and first time indoors and she’s attacking overhangs. I did the Green Two on the tall wall and found this challenging but fun – did it clean. My last climb was on the Red Two on the Wave wall arete – my nemesis. I finally overcame the hard overhung layback move to reach the not so thank god hold. My next move to conquer. The Duke hassled me all night about doing the Green on the Nose – I apparently promised I would, since I put him on the hard walls at KP on Monday night. Unfortunately the Green Two has been replaced with another. What a shame – I reckon I would have cleaned it too. 14 November, 2006 As The Duke, Irish and The Crazy German girl arrived, Irish looks at what The Teacher and I had setup on: Gangbang Wall (23) and Brisbane Bitter (24). "Thats a glass wall!", exclaims Irish in his thick accent. He reminds me of Brad Pitt’s character from Snatch. His words sound like gibberish even though he claims to be speaking English. I jumped straight onto Brisbane Bitter and cleaned it. Did Gangbang next and cleaned this also. My last climb was back on Brisbane Bitter. Had an unexpected fall on one of the laybacks and at the crux. Still pushed through and it was refreshing to do some hard climbing for a change The Duke attempted Brisbane Bitter and improved from his last visit. He reached the start of the head wall where you need to use small holds and stay balanced to reach far left for a thank god hold. The Duke then attempted Gangbang and reached the crux. Almost forget to mention, that The Duke got the giggles after a fall and was talking to himself a lot. The Chad also attempted both climbs and mirrored The Duke’s performance. He nailed the start of Brisbane Bitter but the moves after the layback took its toll on his endurance. The Teacher’s attempt on Brisbane Bitter was just short of reaching the crux on the headwall. The crux of Gangbang could not be conquered. Actually, he was on it and reached a point where a small hold must accommodate both hands – not an easy feat. Despite Irish’s earlier remarks he gave both climbs a go. His enthusiasm got him to the ledge below Gangbang’s crux. Brisbane Bitter’s start and then the crimpers to overcome the corner proved beyond his ability at this time. The Crazy German girl who was not expecting to climb, gave Gangbang a go. There was lots of trash talking from Irish. But she gave as good as she got, "F*cking Irish!" was repeated many times. Afterwards we had some beers on my verandah where Irish and Crazy German girl were excited at seeing a possum, a gecko, a golden orb spider and a "giant f*cking" bat. Irish proceeded to tell about how big a spider he saw at The Duke’s place. During the night the size of the spider grew to the size of a Frisbee. We warned them about Drop Bears, but luckily none were about tonight. "There are no bears in Australia!". "Yes there are, a Koala is a bear. The Drop Bear is related", both The Duke and I retorted. Irish not entirely sure, asked me in confidence as he was leaving, "Is it true?". 24-25 May, 2003 The following story joins Dennis, Fraser, Alex, Calan, Scotty, Mick and Daniel at the site of the Lincoln wreck. By lunch we were at the Lincoln wreck site and our spirits were high. There were 5 hours of light remaining and with the final part of the adventure mostly downhill, our success seemed assured. However, it was strange how, when Calan has worked hard to plan for this adventure, to almost let it slip away. This was to be Calan’s second attempt at finding the wreck, the first being unsuccessful. We were very tired and I think this was the reason for the situation which was soon to develop. We had initially planned to descend along the creek essentially back tracking our initial journey, but we abandoned this in favour of the Mount Superbus ridge further to the North-East. I cannot explain fully why we made this decision but I believe it was because we were all very exhausted and no longer thinking clearly. We had descended off the Lincoln site and were standing at the top of the Mount Superbus ridge. It seemed to make sense just to keep going downhill along the ridge. At first the going was fast and we quickly gained pace on the steep ground. Then we struck the jungle, and amongst the stinging plants and wait-a-while vines, we could make almost no progress. Somehow, due to careless navigation in which Calan and Mick did not compensate for magnetic and grid differences, we had drifted off the ridge and were now in a maze of small streams, old timber roads, and minor ridgetops. It was a confusing tangle of tall trees and we could not see enough of the surrounding landscape to regain our bearings, the GPS was effectively useless under the forest canopy. A feeling of impeding disaster began to close in all around. We were making no forward progress at all, the compass directions seemed all wrong, and the light was fading fast in the forest. I began to feel cold and knew (from experience) how miserable a night out would be with only a pair of shorts and a T-shirt for clothing. We tried to increase our speed but that only increased the confusion, and now under extreme stress, we began to feel the first twinges of panic enter our minds. At times we blindly and aimlessly, charging through the undergrowth, sometimes commando style, little caring, little knowing where we were heading. Read the compass, follow the creek, push through walls of vines. All the time totally oblivious to the thorns and scratches. It was becoming too much, and all the while the clock ticked on as the afternoon faded into night. I can still remember the scene quite vividly – somewhere the sound of falling water, the fading sky overhead, the steep valley sides strewn with decaying logs that crumbled under our feet and sent Calan rolling down the slope. And there was Alex, sometimes behind sometimes in front, staggering, tripping, and like myself falling downwards, forever downwards, down those steep forest slopes. The light had faded so badly now that the green had gone. Everything was in shades of cold grey. We were following a creek bed, where we stocked up on water and Alex decided to take a leak. Thankfully Fraser spotted this environmental terrorist and quickly warned Scotty from refilling his water further down stream. In the ten minutes of light that we had left all we could do was stagger through the forest. We continued in this fashion as our precious minutes ran out, until up ahead Fraser and Scotty stumbled on what seemed like a well worn path, that surely could not be natural. Then as we approached, Alex, who was stumbling through the forest beside me, uttered, ‘I remember this path!’, his voice breathless with total relief. Instantly Alex realised our problems were over. The path meant the way ahead was clear. Even if the night sky was upon us, we could still find our way out along the track the short distance to the Cryptocarya camp site. Within a split second, Alex was at full sprint and we were all following the newly inspired cross country runner down the narrow track to the entrance of the route guarded by a large sign warning bushwalkers to take extreme care before entering the National Park. The sky was dark, the last light had gone just minutes before, and it was hard to believe we were at last at Cryptocarya camp. We had completed the search for the Lincoln wreck as we had hoped and our sense of great satisfaction was marred only by the faint lingering shock of our near defeat. Alas, we celebrated our adventure at the nearby Yangan pub, where Alex still exhausted, asked the bar tender: "How much is $5 worth of chips?". "FIVE BUCKS!" the bar tender assures Alex. The pub roared with laughter. 10 November, 2006 Well The Duke shot me down last night with guns a’ blazing. Damn those big guns of his. No match for my two toothpicks! He cleaned the warm up Black One climb. My effort was dismal: foot placement was all over the place, hands slipping off bomber holds and my patented trademark back heel move cost me dearly. Still cleaned it, but not happy with the effort I went straight up again. This time it was worse – I peeled off at the crux then slipped off the sloper. Super unhappy. Meanwhile, Irish was being trained on the basics by the instructors. He soon joined us on the slab next to the Nose. A Black One, which is our current project. Tom went up first and found the holds near the top to force him into awkward positions. Unfortunately he was not to get up it this week. Next week I predict this Black One will fall. Still feeling like crap, I decided to stick to Greens tonight. Irish was full of beans and jumped on the Red Two but got little joy from it. Relegated to the Blue Two, he powered up! We moved to the crack corner and The Duke and I did a brand new Red Two cleanly. Irish again had little joy on the same climb and resorted to the Rainbow. Next was a Green Two on the Wave wall. Again both The Duke and I did it cleanly and Irish scampered up the Purple. While The Duke was on a roll, he let his guns loose on the Nose’s Green Two. This was an amazing climb to watch. The gun were a’ blazing! Powering through the overhang he encountered more hard moves on the headwall – a one arm hanging maneuver saw him clean it! We finished the night on the tall slightly overhung slab wall, a Green Two for The Duke and I and the Purple for Irish. Finally, I found a good wall to work on my strength – long and slighlty overhung thus requiring both endurance and strength. |
|||
|
Copyright © 2010 Urban Crag - All Rights Reserved |
|||
Recent Comments