Urban Crag

The Velcro Incident.

We finally received our new toys from Canada. Thanks Rachie & Dave!

Red is sporting 7 shiny Black Diamond Quicksilver draws. 

The Giggler bought a Black Diamond Primrose harness package (incl. biner, chalk & bag and a belay device). I told the Giggler on Friday that she must wear in the harness and accessories just like you would shoes. So on the weekend she did just that and experienced a Velcro incident (I’ll let the Giggler explain it in her own words).

The Duke has a Gri-Gri which matches his Ducati colour. I also got a (blue) Gri-Gri.

Red: As you know you need 8 bolt plates (extra in case you drop one). Get a couple of 90 degree angle brackets too. The Duke does not need a Figure 8 – I have three in my possession.

Re-soles: A number of us require resoles. Try and get them done ASAP – takes about 10 days and the Pulpit trip is in a couple of weeks! Take them to K2 or Kathmandu – tell them you want Kenny to do them (he is local).

Blisters in the Sun.

Tonight we were missing Faz, who is off marking maths exams. Crazy German girl hog tied Irish on a pig spit and baked him in the sun over the weekend. Irish now has 3rd degree burns on his back and front. Stoopid Irish. Probably won’t see ‘em for a few weeks until his skin grows back. See a doctor Irish and get the doc to graft your butt cheeks on your back or chest

Ledges of Death.

I lead Brickies Butt Crack (17) to setup a top rope. Red topped over but by the end of the night had no energy spare to practice a lead on this route.

Nice went up next and nailed the face start and then proceeded to the first ledge (of death). The traverse proved tricky and saw her take her first outdoors fall – a good fright to get the adrenaline pumping, but a textbook fall (if there is such a thing). Nice passed the ledge to arrive at the orange wall. She ran out of juice about three quarters up the orange wall. No fear of ledges, no giggling and hang dogging on the rope will see her surpass the Giggler in 3 weeks (the Gigglers words).

The Giggler giggled her way up Brickies, only stopping on the ledge for a good 15 minutes of giggling. During which time, The Chad and I swapped belay duties.

Snake Mantle.

Eventually Mr Erotica set up on Snakes in the Grass (16/20) only after been told numerous times to do it straight away before it gets taken.

Most people did the mantle which is the crux (hence the grade of 20). The rest is not worth doing after conquering the crux.

The Giggler stopped just below her Evil Black Ledge of Death.

Solo <—> oloS.

And I thought no one was listening when I promised that the Olos Slab (25) would fall by the end of 2006. Well guess what we are setting up on til it falls! The Chad is taking 50-1 bets. Its looking like a winner for the bookie at the moment.

Gilligan, Mr Erotica, The Chad, The Duke and Red did Olos (15/21). Most cleaned it and others took the variant head wall finish, a much more interesting finish.

Crimes & Surrender.

Uneventful from my point of view. There was no retreat from Surrender (19). Everyone who climbed it (The Chad, Red, Mr Erotica, Gilligan, the Duke and I), cleaned it.

However, the crux of Crimes and Misdemeanors (22) still proved to be my nemesis. Got a little higher, but the one finger dimple hold could not hold me up there long enough to pop my right foot higher to position myself for the next desperate finger hold. Damn you trash talkers! I heard you all bagging me. The Grasshopper is quite proud of my trash talking disciples. However, it wasn’t enough to get me off the crux – my only response was a "Grrr"

Continue reading Toy Climbers

21 November, 2006

…that is the question. The answer was not to lead, despite tonight’s objective.

Another full house tonight: Red, The Giggler, The Duke, Gilligan, Mr Erotica, The Chad, The Teacher, Irish, Crazy German Girl and Nice.

We setup on Surrender (19), Love Hurts (23), Wrath of Grapes (17/19VF), G&M’s Climb (22) and Samson’s Pillar (16). Thanks for those who helped set up. With such a big crew now every rope counts.

For some reason, I came home with an egg on my left knee and matching bruises on both legs. Don’t remember banging myself up that bad – the numerous falls while attempting the crux on Crimes and Misdemeanors (22) is the likely suspect. I kept to my usual climbs of Surrender and Love Hurts. Was reluctant to lead these after depleting most of my energy on C&M.

The Duke did well to clean both Surrender and Love Hurts. G&M’s crux proved too difficult. Getting Love Hurts cleanly was a good achievement though.

The Giggler nailed the layback moves on the start of Surrender but ran out of juice stepping out to the right for the series of ledges. The second attempt on Surrender was unsuccessful due to tired arms. Even though a layback involves straight arms to minimise the energy required, it still consumes energy as weight is transferred from the muscles to the bones and ligaments.

Red’s return to the rock after an absence of 3 weeks proved too long. Bad moves, forgotten technique and route finding found himself coming off at unexpected places on Surrender and Love Hurts.

Gilligan and The Teacher both worked G&M’s and the Grapes. They also did Surrender and Love Hurts (cleanly). Why didn’t you guys lead tonight?

The Chad powered up Grapes and Surrender cleanly. His nemesis Love Hurts remains unconquered. The Chad looks like defeating the crux at the next outing.

Irish successfully conquered Surrender and Samson’s. He’ll surpass The Duke soon

Mr Erotica cleaned Love Hurts but I didn’t see Erotica do any other climbs than just being a belay monkey all night. Ah well, we’ll make you go first up the Pulpit for your unselfishness.

Nice and Crazy German Girl were happy to watch and listen to the usual trash talking amongst the crew – sometimes joining in. Some banter amongst the crew: The dreaded killer giant drop bear; Irish being attacked by a frucken bat (it was really just a butterfly); The Chad trash talking The Giggler while both are on the cliffs; How to smoke without crying; How to belay with a fag in one hand; and The Duke did most of his talking via his smelly a-hole.

–Mel

Continue reading To lead or not to lead…

Had a good turn out: The Duke, Irish, Crazy German girl, Gilligan, The Freak, Nice (pronounced like the French Riveria town) and myself. We paired up (Crazy found a stray newbie) and began working various routes.

Gilligan, Nice and Crazy  had their induction which seems to be different every time. Remember your ABCs "A for Anchor – is it twisted?; B for Belay – is the biner locked?; C for Climber – are you attached? was reinforced to them many times. If you did not remember or broke a rule it was a 10 push up penalty.

The Duke warmed up on the Black One – cleanly. Irish did it next and got to the top despite a fall and an accidental misplaced foot on a blue. But a mighty effort.

The Freak didn’t disappoint either – he claimed a hard Red Two. Some stretchy moves followed by a crazy attempt to hook his left leg up in an almost figure four maneuver. He cleaned the climb which no one else could repeat.

Gilligan’s first time at UC saw him start on the Purples – even on the wave wall (obviously been out in that sun too long).

Nice nailed every Blue she was on – cleanly too. Technique will see her on the Purple’s next.

Saw Crazy attack the wave wall too – truely a Crazy German girl. Second time climbing and first time indoors and she’s attacking overhangs.

I did the Green Two on the tall wall and found this challenging but fun – did it clean. My last climb was on the Red Two on the Wave wall arete – my nemesis. I finally overcame the hard overhung layback move to reach the not so thank god hold. My next move to conquer.

The Duke hassled me all night about doing the Green on the Nose – I apparently promised I would, since I put him on the hard walls at KP on Monday night. Unfortunately the Green Two has been replaced with another. What a shame – I reckon I would have cleaned it too.  

Continue reading Fours Pairs beat a Full House