Urban Crag

Despite gloomy weather the Duke, Chock, Gilligan, Red, Grasshopper, and the Giggler turned up for a climb on Web (17), Brickie’s Butt Crack (18), and Snake in the Grass (20). Nicey also came along to watch briefly before walking to South bank to watch a movie.

There was lots of profanity at the cliffs tonight, mainly from the Giggler. She had banged her knees (to bleeding point), smacked her elbows and bumped her noggin. Desperate moves on an arete saw her grab a grassy bush with her teeth. Despite the challenges, the Giggler made an epic climb to the top. And apparently she hates this climb. Grass tastes funny too.

Encouraged at how swearing helps overcome difficult sections, the Chock swore at his right leg, "Get up higher you fucking leg". The leg was reluctant to move any higher. Eventually after more coaxing, the Chock finally reached the top of Brickie’s Butt Crack.

The Duke despite the hard mantle, warmed up on Snake in the Grass. He then climbed Web to the crux. The crux is the start of the headwall about 3/4 up. Here balance and strength are needed to crimp and heal hook for height. The Duke finally found the sequence and technique required to reach the top.

Gilligan seemed to glide his way up all three climbs. He even did another lap on Web.

Red was back from the European vacation and despite the break did okay in climbing tonight. Web’s crux was his only nemesis.

The Grasshopper hopped his way up Brickie’s but had trouble on Web’s crux too. Snake’s mantle also proved too difficult too and he relegated himself to traversing around it. 
Continue reading Swear like a Sailor

The Chock, Crane, Gilligan and the Grasshopper made a last minute call to climb despite the rain during the first half of the day. The rocks were still dry enough to climb. In fact, so dry that Gilligan redpointed NUT (19). The crux is at the third hanger. Gilligan only had one rest and clean the rest of the climb. Unfortunately for the rest of the crew, the crux was never conquered. However, Gilligan could not repeat his lead on top rope. Guess the pressure of leading instills more (physicological) power.

Surrenders (19) layback crack start proved a worthy challenge for the Chock and Crane, where the latter finally overcam the layback maneuvers and made it to the crux. The finger pocket move on the crux did not prove a hinderance to the Grasshopper with his busted middle finger.
Continue reading Climbing is not cancelled!

Gilligan lead Halva (16) cleanly although he did zag zig his way up, avoiding the

overhang and instead traversing to the arete and then onto the headwall.

The teacher setup top rope on Kiwi (20) and the Grasshopper on Crap (15).

The Giggler slapped her way up Halva but in the end Halva won the slapping match.

She moved over to Crap where she was more successful and reached the half

way point.

While around the Crap route, the Giggler found  a large Green Frog and started

talking to it. She declined to kiss the frog prince and instead took 228 happy

snaps. The Teacher taunted the frog by placing his bare feet next to it on his

way up the climb. The frog prince did not even flinch.

The Crane also attempted Halva and reached about 3/4 the way up. Crap was cleaned

later by The Crane.

The Teacher climbed all routes and despite a small fall on Kiwi he cleaned the

rest of the climbs with ease.

The Grasshopper still handicapped with a mallet finger was spat off Kiwi at

the crux. He relegated himself to Halva and Crap. Halva seemed to be a rewarding

climb and within the Grasshoppers handicap at the moment.

Continue reading The Frog Prince

The Teacher, the Duke and I lead an easy couple of grade 12s. This was my first climb since I broke my finger and after 2 months or more the finger is still not fully healed. I fear there is permanent damage. My Futsal career is over and even worse my climbing will now suffer. Despite the grade, I stalled at the second bolt runner. Confidence and bridging saw me finally clean the climb.

The Duke and the Teacher did well to lead both routes.

Bigfoot and the Chock arrived. Bigfoot encountered difficulties on the slab while the Chock seemed to pass this crux with less difficulties.

Gilligan arrived with little Bella. Gilligan immediately enticed the crew with beers. The Grasshopper relented but the Teacher wanted one more climb on the easy stuff. He saddled up ready for a lead, with the Duke on belay. At the first fixed hanger he clipped and then was about to proceed onwards. The Grasshopper watched with some puzzlement. He was climbing as if on a lead but he was tied to a top rope!

"Hey Faz! What are you doing?", the Grasshopper asks.

"I’m leading this climb"

It took a couple of glances at his quickdraw and rope setup to realise his funny predicament. The crew burst out with laughter.

We soon moved on to By Ignorance (13) where Bigfoot had an idea to overcome the crux headwall. He shot up the cliff very quickly to the last ledge. Here his theory was to ascend via the right side where a crack with decent holds seemed to exist. The holds soon ran out and a step out onto the headwall was required to trend left towards the finish. The Bigfoot was so close – perhaps a single foothold was missing in his final attempt.

The Teacher attempted the headwall direct. This required using a couple of crimpers and a high foot hold to lift off the ledge. A mighty effort by the Teacher was not enough to pull through this. The Duke, who likes challenges succeeded in claiming the headwall. The Duke of Climbing the instructed the Chock to try and repeat the same. Like the Teacher, the Chock was drained and could not complete this section. The Chock moved to the left and tacked the small wall before laybacking his way to the top.

After climbing a few of us headed down to the Story Bridge. We had fish & chips, an Angus rump, and Thai curry. The food was fantastic!

Continue reading Baby Steps