Nice, The Giggler, Gilligan, Mr Erotica, The Chad and his flatmate Jimbo, The Duke and I climbed the great outdoors Urban Crag called Kangaroo Point for the first time for year 2007. Coming along for the show was Sherrie, Rod & Vic with two young kids they were babysitting for the day.
We dropped ropes over Lost in Space (17) and Pre Menstrual Tendons (23) and I lead up Date Anatomy (12) to setup another top rope.
Despite Rod & Vic taking the kids on a biking marathon around the Brisbane river, I offered the kids a chance to climb DA. A 14yo boy and 12yo girl managed to climb to the top (with a little assistance from Gilligan’s belay hauling technique). The pressure was now on for the Giggler and Nice to reach the top too.
The Giggler reached the 2nd bolt before an undercling hold became too good to let go of. She retreated in shame. A few excuses were offered: fat feet day and the route was a short persons climb. However, the Giggler chose to climb LIS next. After a short burst of giggles at the start she powered her way to the chimney to reach the overhang. The epic effort saw her energy drained away or maybe it was the talking and rock slapping that sapped her power.
Nice went up DA and reached the awkward undercling section. However, she managed to overcome this obstacle and move up to the overhang. A bridging maneuver enabled her to gain the necessary height to reach the thank god holds on top of the slab next to the overhang. The mighty effort saw her reach the top of the climb and claim her first ascent at Kangaroo Point. Her second outing to KP and already a climb has been ticked.
The Duke decided to go hard by jumping on PMT. The hard start delayed The Duke to reach the half way point where holds become slopers. A small detour to the left and the Duke found his way past the overhangs. His second attempt at the climb saw him clean it and take on the overhang direct despite another detour towards LIS before reaching the overhang.
Gilligan became a belay monkey for the kids at the start, but finally climbed PMT and LIS cleanly. Showing their appreciation, the kids thanked Gilligan and I personally for assisting them on the ascent of DA. I was very impressed with their politeness. The good nature of Rod & Vic must be rubbing off on the young ‘uns.
Mr Erotica climbed PMT only but cleanly.
The Chad cleaned PMT too and LIS. His wrist that was banged up from the Pulpit Inversion seems to have no effect on his ability upon his return to the rock.
Jimbo in his sandshoes, hangdogged his way up LIS.
I lead DA, and cleaned LIS and PMT on top rope. The hangovers, err I mean overhangs on LIS and PMT were a good challenge.
On a more serious matter, a new rule needs to be imposed: NO TALKING TO BELAYERS WHEN INEXPERIENCED CLIMBERS ARE ON THE ROPE. Their attention should be solely devoted to the climber at all times. The confidence of the newbie’s safety and the distraction for the belayer is unnecessary. Actually, this should be a general rule for all belayers despite who is on the rope. Enough said.