21 November, 2006

…that is the question. The answer was not to lead, despite tonight’s objective.

Another full house tonight: Red, The Giggler, The Duke, Gilligan, Mr Erotica, The Chad, The Teacher, Irish, Crazy German Girl and Nice.

We setup on Surrender (19), Love Hurts (23), Wrath of Grapes (17/19VF), G&M’s Climb (22) and Samson’s Pillar (16). Thanks for those who helped set up. With such a big crew now every rope counts.

For some reason, I came home with an egg on my left knee and matching bruises on both legs. Don’t remember banging myself up that bad – the numerous falls while attempting the crux on Crimes and Misdemeanors (22) is the likely suspect. I kept to my usual climbs of Surrender and Love Hurts. Was reluctant to lead these after depleting most of my energy on C&M.

The Duke did well to clean both Surrender and Love Hurts. G&M’s crux proved too difficult. Getting Love Hurts cleanly was a good achievement though.

The Giggler nailed the layback moves on the start of Surrender but ran out of juice stepping out to the right for the series of ledges. The second attempt on Surrender was unsuccessful due to tired arms. Even though a layback involves straight arms to minimise the energy required, it still consumes energy as weight is transferred from the muscles to the bones and ligaments.

Red’s return to the rock after an absence of 3 weeks proved too long. Bad moves, forgotten technique and route finding found himself coming off at unexpected places on Surrender and Love Hurts.

Gilligan and The Teacher both worked G&M’s and the Grapes. They also did Surrender and Love Hurts (cleanly). Why didn’t you guys lead tonight?

The Chad powered up Grapes and Surrender cleanly. His nemesis Love Hurts remains unconquered. The Chad looks like defeating the crux at the next outing.

Irish successfully conquered Surrender and Samson’s. He’ll surpass The Duke soon

Mr Erotica cleaned Love Hurts but I didn’t see Erotica do any other climbs than just being a belay monkey all night. Ah well, we’ll make you go first up the Pulpit for your unselfishness.

Nice and Crazy German Girl were happy to watch and listen to the usual trash talking amongst the crew – sometimes joining in. Some banter amongst the crew: The dreaded killer giant drop bear; Irish being attacked by a frucken bat (it was really just a butterfly); The Chad trash talking The Giggler while both are on the cliffs; How to smoke without crying; How to belay with a fag in one hand; and The Duke did most of his talking via his smelly a-hole.

–Mel