13 October, 2006

Chris’ infection in his blistered finger has really set in and is now on antibiotics. Sparkles was his replacement but despite turning up, he could also not climb. He had to visit his mechanic friend about a broken tail light which the Police booked him for. Sparkles was on his last point too – and the copper who booked him is infamous for mouthing off over petty infringements. This was the same cop who booked that car at KP on Monday. I remember him asking us if it was our car, when Fraser said "No", the copper looked disappointed and just shook his head. He has a bad reputation with the climbing community, as reported on this Qurank thread. For the record, don’t bite when C*ntstable Jamie Orr barks at you. Just take the ear bashing.

Back to climbing, Trav, Tom and I continued working the slab wall. With a DJ mix of Led Zeppelin, Black Sabbath, AC/DC, Metallica and other Heavy Rock bands, we attacked the Black Ones. I cleaned two different Black Ones four times in a row. Super happy Tom got his first Black One cleanly, the one with the heel hook. He wore a Cheesey Gary Busey grin after cleaning it.  Trav was inspired to bag these too, and his first venture on this Black One was to see him where we were two weeks ago: working out the heel hook crux. Two more weeks Trav and you’ve got it!

My "warm down" was on the Red Two on the wave wall arete. I managed to improve on my last performance: being able to sort of layback off the sloper/pinch hold and just get my left foot up. Next week or so this crux will fall! Trav and Tom "warmed down" on the wave wall and cleaned the Purple and Blue routes.

 Oh, and it was a good night to climb!

–Mel