19 September, 2006 

Here is the official route descriptions (not my version) and comments and ascentists from our climbs last night…

*** Lesbian Printshop Workers 20m 22
Up nice wall passing four BRs to thin face. Edge up to another BR. Climb up and grab large side cling, place RP 2 in crack and boldly reach up for positive holds and top. Bold finish makes this a demanding climb.
Comments: Demanding lead indeed. An RP#2 is one of the smallest passive pro’s you can use (half the size of your pinkie nail).  I’ve witnessed a massive whipper on this. The leader fell at the crux and stopped at the ledge where the thin face starts!
Ascents: Mel cleaned it. Frank fell up it. Faz, Tom and Chris at the crux.

** Postmodernist Blues 20m 20
Climb face keeping right of the two BRs to ledge. Straight up crack (medium friends) to good holds and arete. Finish boldly up and right to top.
Comments: Crux requires a distant right foot step over the void onto a thin flake. This foot hold is the key to the crux.
Ascents: Mel cleaned it. Faz fell up it. Frank at the crux. Chris just below the ledge.

* Gynaecology 20m 19
Use the same BRs are for Postmodernist Blues but keep left of them to the ledge. Step left and climb up into corner (place lots of pro at base!) and traverse right to good hold. Finish up corner and out left to top.
Ascents: Faz and Tom stumbled up and then performed some bizarre but unintentional & entertaining Kama Satra moves on the top corner.

Samsons Pillar 20m 16
The big red manky crack. Up the left side of the pillar then at halfway climb the crack to the top. Quite disgusting.
Ascents: Frank topped over to move it off G&M’s Climb. Tom cleaned it. Nicole cleaned it also and won the climbing race up by a nose.

** G & M’s Climb 20m 22
More sustained since the BCC renovations. Up small ledges to stance. Clip BR and climb rounded arete (BR) to ledge. Up hard head wall above on reachy big holds clipping a BR and a FH to big jug. Place natural pro in crack and finish easily up jugs to top.
Ascents: None. This is what Frank unintentionally threw the rope over instead of the Samsons Pillar route! It had to be moved not just because of the grade, but any fall on SP would result in swinging into the ledges of G&M. The head game of knowing this is best avoided regardless of how easy Evil Frank thinks SP is.